Programming the RPi

 Each time I've had to start programming a Pi from scratch, there've been two ordeals to overcome:

1.) Compile the driver for the charge controller and

2.) Program the Pi for WiFi Access Point operation.

Variables:

1.) The model: 3b+, 4b

2.) The opsys: Jessie, Buster, Stretch, Bullseye, Bookworm

3.) The program code source

All can effect the result. As time passes inevitable incompatibilities arise and have to be reconciled. Thus, I am attempting a period setup. The term 'period' is borrowed from the world of entertainment media, e.g., period clothes, period furniture, etc.. I attempt to match the software with the operating system that I have been successful with. The model may have less impact. The installation software, Raspberry Pi Imager, automates some of the work.

Currently, I have the system up and running except for a csv to image script. I'm looking at alternatives like gnuplot and matlibplot.

I expect a motor control module in a few days. The unit seems perfect, except for the use of relays in place of MOSFETs.

RPi and obsolescence

 Attempts to get my system up and running have failed, so far.

The software has changed with each update, from Jessie to Buster to Stretch to Bullseye to Bookworm. The Exar driver has always been difficult to install, but now the driver will not compile.

I have two options. Wait till someone solves the problem or revert to an earlier version of the opsys, namely, Stretch or Buster.

Inverter/generator disaster.

 A couple of months ago, I was using the generator alone, with some electrical tools and disconnected from the house. The Predator 2000 was running as usual when I heard a loud slapping-banging noise.

I ran as fast as I could to turn the thing off. By the time I reached the generator, the noise had gotten louder and a thrashing noise had started. I turned off the machine and the engine chugged to a slow stop.

The coiled spring-loaded strap in the recoil starter assembly had come loose and damaged the motor and surrounding space. I ordered a new rope starter assembly and a new ignitor. I installed the parts and decided to adjust the valves while I was at it.

The unit did not start. The compression has improved but there's no spark getting to the cylinder as far as I can tell. There is one other part that may solve the problem: the ignition coil.

Now, Harbor Freight calls an 'ignitor', what most would call the 'ignition coil'. And calls an 'ignition coil' what most might call a 'pick-up coil' or 'sensor coil' mounted deep inside the generator. Their 'ignitor' is mounted outside and on the motor housing and plugs onto the spark plug electrode, as in a car.

My guess is the machine will run if I replace that part they refewr to as the 'ingnition coil.'

I've been in no hurry since, as quiet as the generator is, I enjoy the silence and zero gasoliine costs I save by not running the thing daily. But, I will evetually need to get the unit running for Winter.

Lightning strike!

 Several months ago, a lightning storm occurred. During that storm, a bolt struck my solar array framework. The array was not adequately grounded. A steel cable connects the array to the house, outside, and is used to support the electrical wiring that runs from the array to the control center inside the house.

Subsequently, when the bolt struck the frame, the cable acted as an electrical conductor. The lightning jumped from the outside metal wall fastener to the system iniside. There was a flash of light from the storm's bolt and a smaller flash inside the house along with a loud pop sound.

The lightning blew out the charge controller and damaged the inverter. The batteries, two, did not last long after that.

The charge controller was replaced by a better version from the same company, used but cheaper. 

The inverter was a stroke of luck purchase on eBay. The unit has an automatic sitch inside that detects an existing line voltage. This makes transistioning from generator to invereter/batteries easy and automatic. Prior to that, I had to manually connect and disconnect power cables.

I added a bolt and washers to connect the cable to the array frame. This creates a direct path to ground for lighning.

Battery charger damage and repair

  An old Schumacher automobile battery charger has been used to charge the system auto batteries , for several years. One day, a couple of weeks ago, the charge went pffft. When I tried to plug the unit into the wall a grinding noise was heard. I took the thing apart. The construction was surprising. There are two button diodes used as rectifiers. One had shorted. I replaced both with standard through-hole tech diodes and reassembled the unit. Functional status restored.

Updated System Test run

 A lot of work needed to be done, but the testing was completed. 

The re-worked mosfet PCB functioned as a H-bridge reversible motor driver. But, during the testing, in the cramped space, I shorted out the PCB and blew out the Q4 mosfet. The PCB uses SMD technology which involves miniature components that lay flat on the board. Repair is therefore beyond my capability. Little experience and none of the specialized equipment. I'm trained in old school through-hole technology. Components are large enough to be inserted into holes on the board, then soldered. The new components have to be placed using tweezers.

 I'm waiting on a different design I ordered several days ago. The new PC will not require re-working, plus the new PCB uses through-hole technology, so repairs/upgrades, by me, will be possible.

One of the draw backs was the thin hook-up wire commonly used in prototyping designs. There are several wires running between the driver and other units. These broke three times. Frustrating is to say the least about the problem. I need to get some smaller gauge wire or consider using stranded wire.

The level shifting buffers worked and remain in place and ready. The limit switch software is tested and working.

I removed, tested, oiled, and re-placed the linear actuator.

Several short scripts were written and tested for use in testing the actuator.

The new driver PCB will arrive around the 12th. Waiting.

The last detail (?)

 The last detail is the hookup  of the limit switch to the system.

There are a number of reputable sources with apparent conflicting or inconsistent information. One resistor, two resistors, no resistors. 

I finally decided that a direct connection of the switch between 3.3VDC and ground with use of internal pull-up/-down resistors was what I would use.

Tomorrow, I'll do a trial run of the system.